Skouras, Salto, Wild Yeast, Moscofilero, Greece, 2019

“The 2019 Salto Moscofilero Wild Yeast, a Mavrofilero clone actually, comes in at 11.5% alcohol, 7.7 grams of acidity and just two grams of residual sugar. This is sourced from vines at 600 meters in altitude. Aromatic and packed with flavor, in a dry fashion, this still mostly does what it usually does—provide a light-and-bright white with notable tension on the finish. The fruit has its say, but this zesty white is very much about acidity and freshness. It ends with a juicy finish and an invigorating hint of tartness, a bit of mouth-pucker. This seems like a fine year for this style. That assumes you like the style, to be sure. It is aggressive this year. The producer’s regular Moscofilero this issue is better balanced, more of a middle-of-the-road Mosco. Still, this will be in great form by this summer and the perfect wine for warm weather. It should also hold for a few years—and it was better the next day—but as you get past the first couple of years, that is not really the point with this grape or brand. That tends to give wines like this a ceiling. Nonetheless, it deserves some applause.” 90 WA