“A hemispherical mirror image of Bin 407,” Penfolds’s chief winemaker, Peter Gago, said with a smile. It was only then that I got that 704 is 407 backwards. “We are able to access vineyards in Napa that others can’t access,” he went on to say, referencing Treasury Wine Estates’ considerable landholdings in this region. Beringer, Sterling Vineyards, Stags’ Leap Winery, Beaulieu Vineyards, etc. “We have sensitively used small amounts from our top vineyards—requested rows in the Burgundian model.”
Made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Bin 704 was aged mainly in French oak, 40% new, for 16 months. Deep garnet-purple colored, it leaps from the glass with vibrant Morello cherries, crushed black and red currants and boysenberries scents, followed by touches of cedar chest, menthol, dried roses and black olives. Medium to full-bodied, the palate has an approachable, grainy texture and a lively line lifting the black berry flavors on the bright, pure finish.
Among the recently released quartet of USA/Californian wines under the Penfolds banner, this has the clearest sense of identity (other than Penfolds). It is a well-made Napa Cab with its own take on the typical style. 14,171 cases were made.-91WA, 2021-2033