Alberto Orte, Vara Y Pulgar, Tintilla, Spain 2021

92 points, James Suckling

The Tintilla grape, also known as Graciano, pretty much disappeared after the Phylloxera epidemic in the early 20th century. However, Alberto Orte recovered cuttings from a few still standing Tintilla vines and has propagated enough to produce the first 100% Tintilla in over a century in the Jerez region. These organically farmed vines were planted in 1993 and the vineyard sits at 197 feet in elevation upon beds of Albariza, a type of white chalky soil similar to those found in Champagne. The wine is aged for a total of 19 months. The first 12 months in 40% oak vata and 60% concrete tanks. The remaining months are spent in French oak barrels.

Alberto Orte is a force to be reckoned with, producing truly compelling and ambitious wines that have firmly established him as one of the most talented up and comers of the next generation of Spanish winemakers. Alberto has dedicated a huge portion of his life to discovering great terroirs, resurrecting ancient clones, and replanting nearly extinct grape varieties that would otherwise be lost to modernity. Alberto produces wine in many regions throughout the Iberian Peninsula and we’re lucky to represent the output of his 16-acre estate in Jerez.

Alberto’s work in Jerez has brought back to the region 7 indigenous red and 15 white varieties, some of which were last seen in the area more than 100 years ago. Alberto’s dedication to the preservation of special vineyards and varietals forms the backbone of his efforts around sustainability in viticulture and winemaking. A true farmer at heart, Alberto is fervently passionate about organic farming, choosing to add beneficial cover crops like clover in the vineyards, which he surrounds with naturally pest-repellant hedges of rosemary. He experiments with biodynamic principles in some of his vineyards, which (in stark contrast to neighboring sites) flourish with worms, pollinators, and other forms of life. By protecting the soils, he ensures that his patient work can continue for generations to come. Instead of extracting resources, he conserves them, utilizing dry farming techniques instead of irrigation, which is essential in drought-prone areas across Spain. His new winery at El Aljibe (Cádiz) is powered by geothermal energy; inside the winery itself, he uses an organic approach, allowing his impeccable fruit and terroir to shine through in the final product, unmarked by adjustments and chemicals.