Santo Wines, Assyrtiko, Santorini, Greece 2023

“In a thick glass bottle, the Santo Wines 2023 Santorini Assyrtiko is very mineral in character with crushed oyster shell and ashy volcanic soil. The wine is quite solid and firm in terms of mouthfeel, and those mineral tones do create a sharp through line. In terms of fruit, there is discreet neutral honeydew melon, quince or pear. You get high quality from this cooperative winery with access to fruit from all over Santorini.”- 92WA

“Santo Wines is the only cooperative on the island, and it receives all agricultural products, such as fava beans, capers and cherry tomatoes in addition to wine grapes. The co-op counts 400 grape farmers, and they account for 35% of the island’s growers, although many do not give all of their grapes to Santo Wines. Anyone who produces any agricultural product has a right to be part of the co-op.

Today, the co-op winery and tasting room is located at one of the most panoramic spots on the lip of the caldera. It is one of Santorini’s biggest tourism draws. It brings in close to one million visitors per year. They come to take in the spectacular views and sip local wines. The place is very crowded (especially at sunset) with tour groups, cruise passengers and wedding parties. It is quite a scene.

In 1911, farmers of the island formed a union to protect their agricultural interests with the knowledge that the unique growing conditions on Santorini helped create products with very high quality. “Lower yields make for good quality, and that’s why they made a union,” says the very knowledgeable Marketing Manager Katerina N. Filippou, who took me on a winery tour and walked me through my extensive tasting two mornings later.

In 1947, that union was turned into a co-op. A winery was leased in 1951 in the village of Fira. That winery was relocated to its current remarkable position, and a first Santo Wines harvest kicked off in 1992.

The co-op boasts a gravity-flow winery built in terraced buildings. It is home to 100 employees (200 people during the high season). The winery produces 15 labels, for an average annual production of 500,000 bottles (although its capacity is one million bottles). The first level (starting on the top floor and going down) is the de-stemming and crush area. They use an Italian Siprem vacuum press, which they prefer over a traditional pneumatic press. The second level down is for clarification, some fermentation and aging in eggs and amphorae. The third level is for fermentation in tall stainless steel tanks with 30-ton capacities.

Co-op winemaker Nikolaos Varvarigos has been making winesince 1986 (he has been at the job for 38 years), but he is set to retire. He will be replaced by Winemaker Konstantina Argyrou next year.

Santo Wines also uses grape byproducts to make scrubs, lotions and cosmetic products.”- Wine Advocate